Excerpt from article by Craig LaBan, published Jan. 23, 2024

"Manteca [has] a passion for cuisine as a cultural expression and an outgoing staff that delivers real hospitality...Tacoshop [leans] into Manteca’s experience as a restaurateur with dinner service, essentially transforming the airy quick-serve space into a charming 30-seat BYOB on Friday and Saturday nights.

Manteca [is] still finding the perfect balance of familiarity flavors and cheffy adventure for his audience. But there are more than enough dishes on this menu already that should gain broad appeal. Like tacos topped with sweet local scallops and salsa pipián. Or the cornmeal-encrusted whole fish with salsa macha. Or the soulful pozole de la montaña, a heartily thick rendition of hominy pork stew inspired by chef Fernando Lopez’s grandmother in Guerrero. At $19 for one large and hearty bowl, it’s a bargain on a dinner menu that tops out at $28 for carne asada.

Other dishes, like the Teotitlán-style Oaxacan mole negro with braised chicken, or the Hidalgo-style lamb shoulder barbacoa, which takes three days to make before it arrives steamy and tender in a banana leaf bundle beside stewed black beans, nopales, and a crock of rich consommé from the drippings, is the kind of meal I’d build a road trip around. And then finish with a sweet corn tamale stuffed with tangy guava and molten cheese."